Yarra Valley, Victoria. This baby's real deep and dry after a good airing: I prefer it with these ravens in its dark piny boughs. That'll be some of the colour of its smell. It gets a wee bit sooty, which is also cool. Because below those prickly crarky topnotes come dark juniper and blackcurrant, even that whiff of tiny grape currants. Real deep framboise and crème de cassis pressings. Yum. The palate's sinuous and juicy. The velvety tannins here are more a....