Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand. This is a lush, decadent wine made with 100% whole-bunch ferment (but not tasting or smelling unbalanced in that respect), hand-sorted and fermented in two 500-litre puncheons with the heads taken out of them, foot-crushed and hand and foot plunged daily at the peak of ferment. Then gently basket-pressed. It’s a wonderful wine...