Domaine Ostertag, Epfig, Alsace, France
Andre Ostertag's father founded the domain back in 1966 and handed him the keys to the cellar in 1980, when he was 21.
He sees wine as a language that speaks to the senses of sight, smell, taste and touch - and one that calls upon the grower's critical faculties, as well as memory (and memories). His winemaking is a "very soft process" that relies exclusively on preserving the living matter - slowly shaping the wine over a long time. Pressing is a soft, slow and long process (eight to 12 hours), fermentations are slow and natural, wines are kept on their lees for quite a while, well-considered rackings are used to let wines breathe and oak is likewise used purely for oxidative purposes - and only for varieties suited to it.
André is passionate and free-thinking, and his wines reflect this. Biodynamism was extended to 100% of the domaine in 1998, precluding any use of herbicides, chemical fertilisers and insecticides. All viticultural work is done manually, including harvest. In the cellar, press cycles are long and gentle, fermentations are long and conducted without artificial yeasts, and wines are left on their lees. Barrels are used for Pinot Blanc, Gris (sometimes) and Pinot Noir. There is little or no filtration of any of the wines, which rank among the finest in all of Alsace today.
Biodynamic producer
Winemaking
Muenchberg means "mountain of the monks” and was first planted in the 12th century by the Cistercian monks. The total size of the Grand Cru is 17 Ha, and Ostertag owns 2.05 Ha, of which 1.65 Ha are planted with Riesling.
Muenchberg is one of the most unique grands crus of Alsace because of its very particular soil of red sandstone and volcanic sediments. The vineyard is based in the village of Nothalten. It is a wonderful south-facing amphitheatre of vines in a closed valley in the Vosges foothills, protected at the west by a big mountain (Ungersberg: 901
m). The altitude ranges between 250 and 300m which prevents from excessive heat and helps to keep all complexity in the wines. Like all the domaine's vineyard the Riesling vines are farmed using biodynamic principles, and certified organic.
Tasting Notes
The Muenchberg Riesling has incomparable elegance and length, with a delicate and fleshy structure. In has charming entry and stretches out on a fine and everlasting finish, nearly salty and full of texture, so typical of the Muenchberg.
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