Domaine André Bonhomme
The wines of André Bonhomme were a happy discovery during our scouting expedition for affordable burgundy at ProWein this year. The estate was founded by André and wife Gisèle in 1956, making it the first domaine of what is now the Viré-Clessé appellation. Back then they just had four hectares of vines which they’d inherited from André’s father Joseph, who grew grapes for the cooperative in the village of Viré. The wines have always been bottled at the domaine, which now extends to 12 hectares of vineyards. These have been organically farmed since 2001 and certified from vintage 2014.
2020 André Bonhomme Viré-Clessé Les Prêtres de Quintaine
Bonhomme's Prêtres de Quintaine is a cuvée produced in tiny quantities (about 2,000 bottles). This powerful blend is very refined coming from very old vines of close to 100 years of age situated on the Quintaine lieu-dit, which sits at point where the communes of Viré and Clessé meet. Quintaine is a climat in the heart of the appellation which is unique on account of its soils (limestone from the Middle Jurassic Bathonian period and marl from the Upper Jurassic Oxfordian period) and also from its east/south east exposure. The name of the cuvée in fact comes from the fact the parcel is planted on the slope facing the Quintaine chapel. The wine is fermented and aged for 24 months in oak casks for 24 months. The result is a distinguished, minerally wine with beautiful layers which will take some years to fully fan out.
Tasting Notes
(Palthey estimated that about 40% of these 103-year-old vines on marly soil with red clay still remain, with the rest having been replanted over the years; production here is still 25 to 30 hectoliters per hectare; done entirely in pièces, 25% new, the rest one, two and three years old; bottled two days before my visit):
Bright, light yellow. Sexy aromas of yellow fruits, smoky minerality, marzipan and white truffle. Large-scaled and ripe but dry, filling the mouth without leaving any impression of weight. More large than long in the typical style of Quintaine, whose wines are known for their residual sugar. Finishes lively and gripping, with a light touch and lingering notes of fresh apricot and lemon. Needs time. Today I prefer this wine to the 2013 version, which was extremely tight when I first tasted it but is now revealing its botrytis influence.
No recommended products at the moment.
