Prager 'Klaus' Smaragd Riesling 2021

Franz Prager, now retired, was a co-founder of the Vinea Wachau association in 1983, which has been fundamental in preserving the quality and culture of Wachau wines, and in promoting the image of the Wachau well beyond Austria's borders. In that era, Prager's holdings already included some of the top crus of the region, including Steinriegl and Achleiten, and was producing some of the best examples of traditionally crafted Wachau wine, but there was little understanding of the respective potential of these special vineyards at that time, or what distinguished one from another.

The marriage of a Vienna born young man, Toni Bodenstein to Ilse Prager ushered in a sweeping renaissance at the Prager winery that changed the way Prager, and many other Wachauers, think about their vineyards and about their work as winemakers. Bodenstein, a biologist, geologist, historian, and, at the time, aspiring winemaker, determined that there was much left to learn about the vineyards, and as a scientist, set out to study the effects on the vines of different soil conditions and climates. He took this analytical approach to the terraces across the zone, and became enamored with the varied terroirs. Bodenstein then went shopping, making it known that Prager was interested in purchasing parcels within certain vineyards. Since the average farmer owns less than one acre, this was a complicated task.

Today, as a result of this work, Bodenstein vinifies Riesling from eight different vineyards, and Gruner Veltliner from seven, all contained within a total production of less than 10,000 cases. Each bottling carries the hallmark terroir of its vineyard, and each is as distinctive in the bottle as Bodenstein predicted. Prager's reputation has grown enormously and Bodenstein is humbled by the press naming him 'Mr. Terroir'.

The vineyard Klaus is adjacent to Achleiten, separated by a path and a shrine to the Patron saint of wine -- St. Urban-- placed there hundreds of years ago by Cisterian monks. The shrine is to honor the cru and the path is there to mark the change in the soil from one vineyard site to another. The Bodensteins hold very old Riesling vines in Klaus, planted in 1952, from which comes a wine that Toni describes as "not a charming Riesling” with a wink in his eye. Often forbidding when young this might be the most powerful Riesling in the bunch.

A pure, powerful Riesling with white peach and lime aromas, creamy notes and spice on the finish.

An elegant yet generous wine to pair with fish and white meat dishes.