Weingut Prager
Franz Prager, now retired, was a co-founder of the Vinea Wachau association in 1983, which has been fundamental in preserving the quality and culture of Wachau wines, and in promoting the image of the Wachau well beyond Austria's borders. In that era, Prager's holdings already included some of the top crus of the region, including Steinriegl and Achleiten, and was producing some of the best examples of traditionally crafted Wachau wine, but there was little understanding of the respective potential of these special vineyards at that time, or what distinguished one from another.
The marriage of a Vienna born young man, Toni Bodenstein to Ilse Prager ushered in a sweeping renaissance at the Prager winery that changed the way Prager, and many other Wachauers, think about their vineyards and about their work as winemakers. Bodenstein, a biologist, geologist, historian, and, at the time, aspiring winemaker, determined that there was much left to learn about the vineyards, and as a scientist, set out to study the effects on the vines of different soil conditions and climates. He took this analytical approach to the terraces across the zone, and became enamored with the varied terroirs. Bodenstein then went shopping, making it known that Prager was interested in purchasing parcels within certain vineyards. Since the average farmer owns less than one acre, this was a complicated task.
Today, as a result of this work, Bodenstein vinifies Riesling from eight different vineyards, and Gruner Veltliner from seven, all contained within a total production of less than 10,000 cases. Each bottling carries the hallmark terroir of its vineyard, and each is as distinctive in the bottle as Bodenstein predicted. Prager's reputation has grown enormously and Bodenstein is humbled by the press naming him 'Mr. Terroir'.
Federspiel signifies a purely Wachau wine, fermented dry naturally between 11.5% and 12.5% alcohol. Steinriegl is the name of the vineyard sourced for this wine.
Tasting Notes
Buoyant, with racy acidity and lively, fresh-cut apple and Meyer lemon flavors that take on a creamy allure. The tarragon notes mesh with effusive minerality and hints of white pepper. Drink now through 2020. —Kim Marcus
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